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Posted on 26 July 2010
Red River Gorge Climbing: The Zoo from Colin Delehanty on Vimeo.
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Posted on 5 June 2010 Posted on 3 June 2010 Posted on 1 June 2010  Tonde, Jay, Jansen, Sig, Suz, Michael, Jups, Garick, Ben It was a pity that we had to squeeze 4 days worth of information into 2 days, but still, it was worth it.
The course changed our minds and perception of how bouldering can be – in a gym environment as a circuit, and in the competition environment as a spectacle. In a gym, we have forgotten how daunting it is for a new-comer to our sport to “boulder” with the hard-core climbers. While we were setting easy difficulty routes for new climbers, we weren’t setting easy boulder circuits for climbers new to bouldering. That has changed, as evident with the “Yellow” circuit now in Climb Asia. Most importantly, we have learnt that if the competition problems we design doesn’t engage the athlete on both the mental and physical aspect, but focus solely on the physical, we might as well have campusing competition to see who’s stronger, and in fact, make everyone’s job much easier. So there you are, the ‘tips’ for the ‘exams’ this weekend. Look around! Watch out for the volumes! If something is there, it might not have a use for it! And most importantly, be open-minded. Prepare, to be learned.
Big Thanks to Climb Asia for sponsoring the venue, and to Tonde of L’Ouvre-Boite (pronounced “louva buat”) for sharing with us much much more than just route-setting skills.——————————————- Below are the difficulty level of the circuits we set, and the tape colour we used. When you’ve finished all the problems, trying doing all of them without rest, and without falls. Circuit and difficulty - Beginner – Yellow Novice – Not set yet Open Women – Red and Brown Intermediate Men – Green Open Men – White and Dark Blue For those using Mozilla Firefox, please Click here to take the survey now. Help us make SBL2011 even better by telling us what you think of SBL2010! <a href=”http://www.eSurveysPro.com/Survey.aspx?id=329b9e7f-ef81-4f32-96f7-7295f9a341f5″ mce_href=”http://www.eSurveysPro.com/Survey.aspx?id=329b9e7f-ef81-4f32-96f7-7295f9a341f5″ target=_blank>Click here to take the survey now</a>. The survey was created with eSurveysPro.com <a href=”http://www.eSurveysPro.com” mce_href=”http://www.eSurveysPro.com” target=’_blank’ title=’Online survey software’>survey software</a>. Beware, some of the footage shown in the videos below might be controversial. Questions will be asked, and fingers pointed. However, the point of the videos is to let all the strong young people in Singapore know, that 7b+, 7c+, or even 8a, is not beyond most of you! There are many more stronger younger climbers than the old man shown in the video, so it means that much more can be expected of them. Some time ago, ex-young chaps such as Hazlee, Ron and Haroz were sending hard even at 16-18. In retrospect, young climbers today are not as prolific sending on natural rocks nowadays. Perhaps it is time to send again… Hope the videos can inspire some of you to go out and finish a hard project on real rocks, because at the end of the day, a plastic 8b is nothing compared even to Groove Tube, the most beautiful 6a at Tonsai. Tidal Wave, 7b+ (most Singaporeans’ first 7b+) Society of Gravitational Studies, 7c+ (the new standard?) Society of Gravitational Studies, 7c+ (old man sending) For too long, an old man has been dictating the shape of the conversations. No more. Click here, or on the banner on the right to read musings from the Edge, a new blog headed by 2 sweet young things by the name Jansen Ko and Timothy Tay. Blog is strictly for above 18 only!  Musings from the edge... The Ponti Monster Big thanks to Teknik for sponsoring the awesome No Shadow Feet, Fat Pinches, Fatty Long Fats and Talons! . All qualifiers videos are up…, except for Intermediate Women. A big apology to the inter women…, sorry for over-setting! Novice Men Qualifiers Novice Women Qualifiers Intermediate Men Qualifiers Intermediate Women Qualifiers No successful recordings of the Intermediate women were made… Open Women Qualifiers Open Men Qualifiers Team Event It wasn’t SCA. It wasn’t Tonde. It wasn’t NTU ODAC nor NTU UMC. It wasn’t Climb Asia. It wasn’t Mike and Hafiz the MCs. It wasn’t Paul’s spotlights. It wasn’t the 2 girls tabulating the results. It wan’t Melvin the chief judge. It wasn’t Doris, Uyanga, Tim, Jonathan, Melissa, Izzat and many more volunteer route-setters. It wasn’t the climbers. It wasn’t the spectactors. It wasn’t the venue sponsors. It wasn’t the ODAC Sai-Kang warriors working tirelessly behind the scenes. It was everyone. The success of Pumpfest 2010 was made possible by everyone who worked their bones to the dust, the spectators who screamed till their throats are hoarse, and the climbers who climbed to their “death” (A muerte). As the dust settles down, let us remember the sights and sounds of Pumpfest 2010, and the adrenalin that will course through our bodies for many more months to come. Thanks to everyone involved in Pumpfest 2010. You made it a success.  After event party
Yup, you heard it right! SCA has invited World Cup setter, Mr.Tonderai Katiyo from France and he will be the Chief Route-setter for Pumpfest 2010! All routes, from Novice to Open will be personally supervised by him and those in the Open Category can expect to climb on routes at the World Cup standard. Mr. Tonde has set for -
See his website here - http://www.ouvreboite.eu/site/index.php?lang=en Pictures of him route-setting can be found here – http://www.mothh.com/photos/set4/ So what are you waiting for! Sign up for Pumpfest now! Early Bird ends 2nd May and all registration ends 16 May or when capacity has been reached. We may even be closing the Novice Men waiting list soon! HURRY! Climb with Tonde… Climbing clinics are also available with Mr.Tonde. Click for more info.Note – The accumulated scores are tabulated with the following conditions -
Please do not hesitate to email Ben at sbl@sgclimb.com if you have any queries. Gravical 4-7 MarBoulderactive 12-14 MarPumpfest 28-30 May (Upcoming)JC Girls JC Boys Overall ResultsRound 1 |
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The lot of us who took the course will be more than happy to share our new-found knowledge with the rest of the climbing clubs, and we hope what we learnt can be common knowledge in a few years. In fact, representative route-setters from SMU, NUS, and NTU will be learning on the job this coming Wednesday and Thursday, and taking on responsibilities as Asst. Chief Route-setter for various categories.
