Climbing at Crazy Horse Buttress, Chiang Mai (Thailand)

Updated on 7 Dec 2009 – Informants with updates pls contact SCA at dyno@sgclimb.com.

Article by Denali Barron and pictures by Josh Morris from Chiang Mai Rock Climbing Adventures (CMRCA)

Crazy Horse Buttress

Climbing Meets Culture, Community in Chiang Mai…

Shaded by the southernmost toes of the Himalaya, Chiang Mai is a charismatic population center in the endless green countryside of Northern Thailand.  Here, nearly every street is a market street, lined with tantalizing sights and smells.  Thousands of University students study all day and party all night.  The temples are stunning, the cuisine is legendary, and the potential for outdoor adventure is unequaled anywhere this side of… Krabi?  Yosemite?  Nepal?  Hard to say – it’s tough to quantify potential.  Yet there is no doubt that Crazy Horse Buttress, only 35 kilometers outside of Chiang Mai, has all the magnetism and momentum necessary to become Thailand’s newest international sport climbing destination.

Jai Rawn (Hot Headed), 6b

The Beginning

Until ten years ago, climbers rarely thought to visit this part of Thailand.  But as climbing in Asia becomes more popular and accessible, adventurous travelers are heading north to sample the unique cultural and climbing experience at Crazy Horse.  If you are looking for something fresh and wild, but not willing to compromise high safety standards, then Northern Thailand is the place to come.  The Chiang Mai region also fits neatly into a climbing tour of Asia, as it is within easy reach of great Chinese and Laotian crags. The first route was bolted in this towering limestone karst just over a decade ago.  Development since then has been deliberate and professional, driven by a sense of stewardship for the place.  Today, the black, white, and orange streaked limestone crag sports more than 120 stunning routes.

Muad bouldering at Huay Kaew Waterfall

The Climbs

The majority of climbs at Crazy Horse are in the range of French 6a+ to 6c, but there are plenty of unforgettable routes for all experience levels. Conscientiously bolted to be safe for a climber who is climbing their hardest at each grade, Crazy Horse allows a climber to fully indulge in the actual climbing, without being distracted by the fear of a dangerous fall. It is not unusual to find crimpy edges and juggy pockets with a few tufa pulls and a hand jam or two on any particular climb. Some routes stand 60 meters tall, providing fantastic and little-seen views of the rolling hills and vast farming valleys of Chiang Mai province.  There is also a good deal of world-class caving in the area.  Roadside restaurants near the crag serve delicious local cuisine, and nearby hot springs provide a perfect way to wind down after a day of hard climbing.

Getting there

Getting to the crag is an adventure in and of itself.  Some climbers take advantage of the carpool service offered by Chiang Mai Rock Climbing Adventures, while others opt to rent a motorbike or car.  Renting a motorbike is easy, economical, and a wonderful way to see even more of the local culture.  In addition, personal transportation might enable you to visit some of the Chiang Mai region’s many new and exciting bouldering sites.  There are a number of bouldering areas within a half hour drive of the city, with about 60 established problems, and hundreds more as yet unclimbed.  Bouldering here is developing slowly, but it’s a lot of fun.

The view from high up on Crazy Horse is arresting.  (We ask that you ensure you are securely clipped into a bolt anchor before becoming truly captivated).  The city of Chiang Mai shimmers in the distance, surrounded by villages, farms, and hills as far as the eye can see.  The limestone cliffs are only a small part of a great landscape, and climbing here means engaging with the community and culture that sustain the crag.

5 Things to Do!

For the Community

Local company Chiang Mai Rock Climbing Adventures (CMRCA) is turning community investment into the byword of Crazy Horse.  Founded in 2002, CMRCA is currently advancing a suite of projects to ensure that climbing at Crazy Horse stays rooted in the local culture and economy.  They collaborate with locals to keep the crag clean, provide reusable water tanks and bottles at the parking area, support regional vendors and transportation systems, and plan to put up 150 new routes in the coming year.

Headhunters, pitch 3, 7a

“It’s more about community than anything else,” says Josh Morris, founder and director of Chiang Mai Rock Climbing Adventures.  “Climbers should care about each other and their environment and we’re working toward that end.  It’s expensive to eat and sleep in Railay (Krabi), not to mention the cost of getting there.  This makes climbing prohibitive to many Thais – but not here.  Being so close to Chiang Mai, locals can enjoy the sport without being subjected to tourist-priced services.”

All talk of potential aside, Crazy Horse Buttress is one of Asia’s most remarkable up-and-coming sport climbing destinations.  Get yourself to Northern Thailand and experience a fusion of climbing and culture that you’ll never forget!

Note: All the information you need (and more) can be found in A Guide to Rock Climbing in Northern Thailand by Josh Morris and Khaetthaleeya Uppakham; also check out www.thailandclimbing.com.

CMRC Chiang Mai Rock CLimbing