Bouldering at Castle Hill, New Zealand

Updated on 7 Dec 2009 – Informants with updates pls contact SCA at dyno@sgclimb.com.

Article and pictures by Ben Toh, SCA.

Suz on Think Tank, V4

CASTLE HILL, SOUTH ISLAND, NEW ZEALAND

Situated 2hrs inland from Christchurch and 700m above, Castle Hill is a magical wonderland of grass, stone and sky. Most visitors’ first impression of Castile Hill will be one of scepticism. On closer inspection though, that many will be convinced and awed by the endless boulders and unique creations of nature.

The author learnt the hard way that the summer in New Zealand can be considered as winter in other parts of the world. Night temperatures can dip below zero and a 0^oC sleeping bag is essential. For the well-heeled, the accommodations at Castle Hill village guarantee a good night’s sleep. Those on a shoe-string can camp at Craigieburn Shelter at $6 and $3 for adults and children respectively.

Bouldering at Castle Hill

Cyclops Boulder

Aretes, dihedrals, slabs, overhangs, roofs – the boulders at Castle Hill tests climbers on different terrains and force them to adapt and learn, in order to surmount the problems. While the landing is soft, most of the time the steep slopes makes mat placements a little problematic. Spotters should try to place a foot on the mat to prevent it from sliding upon impact. This could save many a climbers’ knees and ankles.

From the highball “Cyclops” boulder to the single move V6 mantle called “The Unrepeatable”, there are lots of variety of climbing around. For a bit of Jackie Chan, try the R & J (run and jump) problems.

For crimp enthusiast, there is the aptly-named “Beautiful Edges, V4”.

Of note, there is a beautiful V3 problem called “Think Tank”. It starts inside a scoop and the crux lies in being able to stem your feet across the scoop and use a 80 degree sloper to high-step your way up. Aesthetic and zen, this problem is a must do!

When the point comes where the flesh is willing but the skin is missing, go do the Cave Stream. It is a good introduction to the caving experience with water up to your chest, at times rushing at you, and always below 5^oC! Remember to bring headlamps and a change of clothes.

Oh Yeah. In case of extreme boredom, and the crashpad is not yours, try crashpad surfing! (Sorry Chris!)

Paynes Ford, Takaka

A sleepy town at the northern end of South Island, Takaka is not beset with tourist development. Near the starting point of one of New Zealand’s “Great Walks”, the Abel Tasman Coast Track, most visitors here come in search of climbing, trekking and adventure.

1080 and the Letter G, 23

The climbs at Paynes Ford are not too bad, but the chill-out nature of the place more than makes up for it. Most climbers stay at Hangdog Camp where the crowd is always fun. So fun that burning up full gas canisters in the campfire is a prevalent night-time activity! No worries though, they always put a metal drum on top which would eventually get blown sky high! Just remember not to pitch your tent near the campfire, in case of fall-out from the explosions!

An hour’s drive up north will bring you to possibly the saddest, most beautiful place in the world – Wharariki Beach. If you come alone, you will find yourself contemplating questions to which the answer lies either in enlightenment, or death. Do not come here sad…