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RECOMMENDED ROUTES IN KRABI

5c to 6c

 Groove Tube, 5c  (Fire wall)

-          A classic climb due to the unique rock formation. The name is a give-away. And if it’s not clear enough, some people say, to truly do the climb, you’ve got to squeeze through the hole at the start and then up the tube. Great views at the top too!

 Where Eagles Don’t Dare, 6b (Eagle Wall)

-          Want to fly as high as the eagles? That’s my impression of the route. A long but enjoyable climb, so make sure you has got enough rope!

 Make a Way, 6b (123)

-          Many Singaporeans first 6b. And don’t underestimate it! Quite technical on the face-climb top, that is if you survive the dicey traverse. Another long climb with a demanding anchor section.

 Missing Snow, 6b+ (Tyrolene)

-          Not if you’re the belayer, you’ll definitely be in the midst of a snow-like chalk shower! Not an easy tick for the grade. Fingery, if you’re not confident with the feet.

 The Sit Spins, 6b+ (Dum’s Kitchen)

-          Sharing the same start as “Asia Shadow Play”, this is a totally different climb, unique to Tonsai’s usual fare. Lay-backing, something that Diary farm or the gym doesn’t teach us!

 Lion King, 6c (Dum’s kitchen)

-          The super-classic. Everyone’s project in order to break into the 7. A very aesthetic climb too.

 Vikings in Heat, 6c (Tonsai)

-          Slabby start, always feel like it’ll hurl me down the ladder if I make any mistake. A committing move at the crux. Always a good warm up for the body and mind.

Crying Rock, 6c (Tonsai)

-          Next to Crying Rocks but a totally different climb. A good variety of movements and holds along the way. A slightly easier warm up.

  

 6c+ to 7b

 Sweating Mekong, 6c+ (Tonsai)

-          Hard! If you like steepness, if you like pinching on stalactite, then this is your climb.

 Loisl, 6c+ (Tyrolene)

-          Face climbing, small ledges, big run out. And always confusing! A must tick before going to the sevens because it feels harder than some sevens!

 Narsillion, 6c+ (Low tide wall)

-          Very hard! I mean the walk there.  A crimp fest with a you-better-not-skip bolt. Especially if your belayer is sitting down in front of those knee-searing sharp rocks!

 Kratoy, 6c+ (123)

-          Free climbing up the cave. Lots of weaving left and right. The precarious bridging across to the hanging stalactite, lots of air or water below! Rushing to finish before the tide comes in. An adventure!

 Freedom Safari, 7a (Wild Kingdom)

-          A pumpfest! Always moving left and lots of slopey ledges or ‘book shelves’.

 Live and Let Thai, 7a+ (Thaiwand wall)

-          Perched high on the exposed Thaiwand wall, a throw high up the route. Not for the weak hearted.

 Reminiscence, 7a+ (Dum’s  Kithcen)

-          Classic! A must-must try, especially for those technique-junkie. Watch out for the super runout in the middle!

 Tom’s Pitch, 7a+ (Hidden World)

-          If you’ve already walked there, try this route. You won’t be disappointed. Engaging all the way with a very distinct crux section or maybe just for me.

 Lost Lek, 7a+ (Duncan’s Boot)

-          One may miss this climb. But it’ll be a waste. Another interesting traverse.

 Wake and Bake, 7a + (Dum’s kitchen)

-          Another rare layback problem, strenuous because of the steep wall and thin flakes. Surf it out yourself!

 Cross-Eyed, 7b (Melting wall)

-          Such an awe-inspiring route! Intimidating at first sight but it’s so engaging that you forgot about the steepness and the length.

 Knights in White Satin, 7b (123 Wall)

-          What a romantic name.  Smart route setting resulting in a beautiful climb.

  

7b+ to 8a+

 Tidal Wave, 7b+ (Tonsai)

-          Almost every Singaporeans first 7b+, indeed! A tad harder now that the small but helpful stalactite is broken. Catch a wave in the setting sun, you’ll be bathed in gold.

 No Have, 7b+ (Tyrolene)

-          Have anyone fallen off that scary traverse? Nope, that’s not the crux. Subtle weight shifting, correct sequence and lots of courage is the solution for this route.

 Blind, Deaf & Dumb, 7b+ (Tyrolene)

-          A long climb. Luckily the powerful section is at the start but do not let do not your guards yet. The top easier section can be quite tricky. A very satisfying climb. 

 K1, 7c (Tyrolene )

-          Yes, it looks a bit artificial. But heck it’s a fun climb! Fast too. Either you make it or fall. The rest at the top is too merciful though.

 Tyrolene Air, 7c (Tyrolene)

-          A demanding route. A very hard and powerful move at the first crux.  Long runout on slopey ledges. High chance of sprained ankle. The top crux is committing, coming after the all that sustained climbing.

Hang Ten, 7c (Tonsai)

-          A very acrobatic route.  After Tidal Wave, this will always be the next target because of the proximity.

 Sour Fish, 7c+ (Tonsai)

-          A fun route. The roof part is like a journey. After that, get your orientation back and whip out your power! Then look out for the ‘star’ sign.

 Just Call me Helmet, 8a (Tyrolene)

-          Possibly most Singaporeans first 8a. Very technical!

 Asia’s Shadow Play, 8a+ (Dum’s Kitchen)

-          If you’ve small fingers, high pain threshold and preferably good edging footwork, this will be for you. Don’t let your guards down even if you are just one move away from the last hold. Many have fallen from there.  A real test of delicate footwork and body tension!

2 comments to RECOMMENDED ROUTES IN KRABI

  • Chris

    Another great route is Concrete Jungle 6C+, Same start as Freedom Safari, but moves straight up, A technical climb with some slopers here and there.

  • Chris

    There is a new route in Tyrolean Wall called Placebo 6C, Left of Loisl, Quite crimpy and have to search for the holds, dont bother looking for chalk marks as a guidance, some chalk marks are done by delinquents

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