Interview with Jay Koh, 1st Singaporean to climb 8c

Email interview done by LCM – self-trained journalist, climber who is better at SFIV than climbing…

The below interview is an unedited version and all views and comments are of Mr.Koh’s personal views and is not reflective of the views of SCA.

Hi Jay,

Thank you for accepting the email interview. Below are 8c questions. Speak your mind and interprete the questions your own way. Be creative. Feel free to add in any juicy gossips!

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8c Questions
1) Tell us more about what happen that day. What u ate for breakfast, your mindset before the climb, pre climbing routine,etc

I had my usual breakfast of poached eggs with toast at Andaman Resort in the morning. Warmed up on a couple of 7As before the whole of Tonsai was hit by a huge thunderstorm that lasted for about 2 hours. Went over to check out on QX and Kelly at Tyrolean wall, who were on No Have, 7B+ (Most of the walls were still sheltered from the rain, though the rock was still a little moist from the spray). Ended up falling off Blind, deaf and dumb 7B+ on my onsight attempt. Did it
on my 2nd go, putting up the quickdraws for QX and Kelly to check out the route.

It was towards the late afternoon when i decided to give Greed a go. Fell off my usual spot and decided to give the entire route a good brush as it was still a little wet. A friend watching below suggested holding a pocket differently where i kept falling off from.

I was initially quite apprehensive about giving it another go as it was getting dark and the beach was full of people (i don’t climb too well with too many people around).

Send it on my next try just as the sun was setting. My first 8C!

2) What is your next goal in climbing (or what is your climbing goal this year)? FA, competitions, bolting, bouldering, trad, etc?

To keep pushing the standards of climbing in Singapore. Maybe a little competitions here and there. Exploring new crags, and hopefully a bouldering trip to Rocklands, South Africa during June !!! Anyone ???

3) What advice would u give a newbie climber who wants to climb 8c?

Stop being a gym rat! Get your arse out onto some real ROCK!

4) What do you think the SG climbing community must do to produce climbers like Ramon, Patxi, Ondra, Sharma?

Sadly, the quality of the climbing gyms in Singapore is lagging behind many countries. Some gyms have become very focused on making money and have lost the personal touch. I have always believed that it is possible to build a good gym that caters to a wide spectrum of climbers. Just look at Camp 5 at 1 Utama in Malaysia. In addition, the Malaysian govt has build a mega gym at Putrajaya which makes Camp5 pales in comparison. Such facilities are vital for producing top climbers like those you have mentioned. In addition, it is also critical for one to venture onto real rock for self improvement as a climber.

5) French 8c is equivalent to V14 boulder. Who do u think will be the first Singaporean to boulder V14 and when do you think that will happen?

I am certain there are lots of people in Singapore who are capable of climbing V12 right now. Unfortunately many of them are only climbing plastics indoor. As for bouldering V14, hell ya !!!! For sure we can do it !!! However it will only happen when people start pushing themselves on REAL ROCK !!!

6) What is your best and worst moment in climbing?

It’s a combination. Experiencing the tsunami on Boxing Day 1st hand and sending Jai Dum (8b) 3 days later.

7) What is your occupation now? Is it possible to be a professional climber in Singapore?

I am doing some coaching part time right now and NO, it is not possible to be a professional climber in Singapore. Even obtaining sponsorship for free gears in Singapore is not easy. Unlike climbers in the States, the local climbing shops only support climbers that compete. Competitions are only a very SMALL part of climbing. At the end of the day, the purpose of climbing in gyms is to get stronger so that you can climb better on real ROCK.

8 ) Choose one and explain your answer:
a) high step or throw?
b) onsight or redpoint?
C) Singapore or Spain?

C) Spain!
Climb Mt Faber or Margalef. You choose.